Growing and Cutting Hay

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With the rising expense of hay, if you have the space and equipment, growing and cutting hay for yourself could be a way to reduce costs. Even those with smaller spaces can supplement their hay in summer.

If you’re raising goats, you probably know they can be expensive. In addition to the initial cost of acquiring the goats, equipment, and supplies, there are ongoing hay, minerals, and possibly grain expenses.

When I started with goats more than 25 years ago, the price for good, quality, local grass hay was only about $2 a bale. Alfalfa used to be more expensive, but, at least where I live, the cost of some grass hay has caught up to it, reaching as much as $30 for a bale. In addition, the quality is hit or miss. It’s frustrating to shell out money for something the goats refuse to eat. If I had to feed more than the four goats I have now, I’d soon go bankrupt.

Occasionally, I can buy reasonably priced hay in the field to load and transport in my little pickup truck. That takes a strong back and a vehicle that can carry more than a bale or two. Those who transport goats in a sedan know what I’m talking about.

What about growing your own hay or alfalfa (a legume) to supplement what you purchase or as the mainstay for your goats? This is a good alternative for those with the necessary acreage and equipment.

Growing Small Patches of Alfalfa

Those with only an acre or less can grow small alfalfa patches to feed either fresh or dried. It’s a great supplement because the protein and calcium content is higher than that of grass hay. Even those with minimal equipment can do this.

Start with weed-free soil that has plenty of nitrogen. Soil can be tested through a local extension office or with a reasonably priced test kit. If you have poor soil, enrich it by tilling or shoveling in coffee grounds, bone meal, or even homemade compost. This can be done with a hoe or a rotary tiller if you have one.

If planting in a larger area, use stakes and string to mark the planned rows. Create the rows with a hoe or shovel, keeping in mind the ideal placement for good drainage and sun exposure. Add seeds and rake them into the soil. Plant them only ½ inch deep to ensure germination, and water them well.

For the first 10 days, water three times a day for 10 minutes each time (unless you have rain). Decrease the time, if needed, to avoid waterlogging. After 10 days, water for 20 minutes once a day.

Fertilize monthly. If using a liquid concentrate, spray both the ground and the plants. In addition, use a non-toxic pest repellent — more frequently if the plants are infested. (See below regarding pests.) Some fertilizers and pesticides can be mixed and sprayed, saving a step. Weed your plot as needed, monitor for pests, and address the problem immediately.

You’ll have the first cutting of green alfalfa to harvest 60 to 90 days later. Don’t wait until it flowers because the nutritional content will decrease at that point as the plants put their energy into producing seeds rather than growing. It will grow faster after the first cutting, and you may be cutting hay again in 30 to 40 days.

If you’re growing small patches, cut the alfalfa and give it directly to goats to supplement their hay. Don’t overfeed them, especially if they aren’t used to fresh grass.

Cutting hay with a scythe 1 to 2 inches from the roots is necessary for larger patches. Dry the cut alfalfa in the sun for 2 to 3 weeks, turning it occasionally. Cover it if it’s windy or rainy. Store the finished product in a dry location with low humidity.

Growing a Larger Crop

Those with plenty of acreage and access to necessary equipment can substantially reduce, if not eliminate, their hay bill by growing their own hay or alfalfa. I talked to Ana Skemp of Deep Roots Community Farm in LaCrosse, Wisconsin, about growing a larger crop. Her family partners with another family farm, devoting about 40 of their 1,000 acres to growing certified organic alfalfa, grass/alfalfa mix, and perennial pasture grass. They rotate it with corn and soybeans to help ensure the soil is healthy. In a good year, they get up to three cuttings. Because their livestock have grazing and browsing land, they usually only need to feed the harvest in the winter.

The biggest difference between growing a small patch and growing several acres is the need for specialized (and expensive) equipment and labor. I asked Ana about what equipment they have on their farm, and they have most of that listed below. Her husband was fortunate to find an old baler at auction for a great price rather than having to buy a new one. Before that, they had a neighbor do it and split the hay 50/50.

She noted that having both a round and square baler is helpful. In addition, having someone who’s mechanically inclined on the farm is a must, so they can repair any equipment that breaks down.

Equipment and implements for growing and cutting hay can include:

• Tractor. A tractor and attachments are essential for all aspects of large-scale hay production. It’s used for plowing, disking, planting, mowing, raking, baling, and hauling hay.
• Plow: Plowing soil before planting helps to aerate it and bury other unwanted vegetation, such as weeds.
• Disc harrow: After plowing, discing breaks up dirt clods, removes weeds, and smooths the soil surface.
• Seeder: The name of this equipment speaks for itself.
• Sickle bar or disc mower: These are used for mowing hay. The disc mower is faster but works best with larger tractors that have hydraulics.
• Tedder: A tedder lifts hay off the ground.
• Hay Rake: Like hand raking, these machines flip the hay for drying and turn it into windrows so the baler can pick it up.
• Baler: Balers for round or square bales are available.
• Bale wrapper: Used to wrap round bales to store outdoors.
• Trailer: Used to haul the bales to storage.

Planting and Growing

As with smaller crops, ensure the starting soil is healthy and weed-free. Plow the area to be used, then use the disc harrow. (If the area was previously used to grow hay, the land can be disked and not plowed.) Seeds can be planted by hand (labor-intensive) with a hand broadcaster or by a tractor with a grain drill machine.

Depending on your locale, irrigation may or may not be required. Irrigating your hay or alfalfa crop can make a huge difference in yield in dry or drought-stricken areas.

Harvesting

In addition to problems with pests and the crop’s maturity, the biggest factor in knowing when to harvest is the weather, which also depends on your location. In the Pacific Northwest, the rain has become unpredictable and can happen at any time of the year. Aim for a dry period of at least two weeks before cutting hay.

Between rain and drought, farmers sometimes get only 1 or 2 cuttings of hay. Three cuttings in a year are ideal because each cutting becomes more nutritious. Check with your local extension office to learn more about growing and cutting hay in your locale.

Drying

After cutting hay, it must be dried in the field for at least 2 or 3 days before being baled. This helps prevent mold from growing on it. It’s initially left on the ground where it was cut, and then a few days later, it’s put into rows to continue drying and to prepare for baling.

Baling

Square bales usually range from 40 to 50 pounds up to 150 pounds. Round bales can weigh 10 times as much. The advantage of the smaller, lighter square bales is that they’re easier for most people to handle, load, and stack. The disadvantage is that they take more work in the long run. Round bales and heavier square bales require equipment, but one person with a tractor and trailer can handle them. Round bales are also denser and more moisture-resistant due to their shape.

A moisture content of around 20% or less is fine for small square bales, but for large square and round bales, the moisture content will need to be lower — as little as 15%. A hay moisture meter can be purchased to give you an accurate measurement. This is an important step — it will help ensure no mold grows and because bales with too much moisture can spontaneously combust.

Storage

Store hay in a dry area to prevent mold. This can be a shed, barn, or greenhouse. As an alternative, after allowing round bales to rest for a few days, they can be wrapped in plastic film or tarped to keep out moisture and then stored outdoors. The more tightly baled they are, the better they keep moisture out.

Additional concerns

Pests

The two most problematic pests that affect alfalfa are blister beetles and weevils. Alfalfa weevils lay eggs in the spring (or in the fall if they overwinter) and, after hatching, eat the leaves and stems. Baling the hay early will kill them.

Blister beetles excrete a chemical called cantharidin, which is toxic and harmful to goats that eat them. They prefer flowering plants, so cutting hay and baling early can help. Regularly examine the alfalfa and keep weeds down around the plot, especially the borders. If you find alfalfa with these beetles, burn it.

Grass hay has more insect pests, including grasshoppers, leaf hoppers, and crickets; white grubs; fire ants; two-lined spittlebugs; and armyworms. Of these, fall armyworms (a caterpillar) cause the most damage, with the ability to decimate a crop in only a few days. A key to preventing problems is finding and eradicating the pests early.

Other ways to manage these pests include using natural predators, rotating crops, keeping soil healthy, and controlling weeds and tall grass. Pesticides should be the last choice for managing them. If you choose to use a pesticide, be aware of its environmental effects and the health and safety of the animals destined to eat the hay.

Testing

To learn about the nutritional content of your hay, you’ll need to have it tested. Contact the National Forage Testing Association (www.foragetesting.org/) or your local Extension office to find out where you can get hay tested.

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Cheryl K. Smith has raised mini dairy goats in the Coast Range of Oregon since 1998. She’s the owner of karmadillo Press, and author of Raising Goats for Dummies, Goat Health Care, Goat Midwifery, and The Hidden Creek Farm, a series of cozy mysteries set on a goat farm. www.goathealthcare.com

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Sources:

• J. Keeler Johnson. “How to Grow Quality Hay.” Hobby Farms. www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-grow-hay/
• Sue Ferreri (co-author). 2023. How to Grow Hay. www.wikihow.com/Grow-Hay.
• Terry Grossman. 1975. A Guide to Growing, Harvesting and Baling Hay. Mother Earth News. www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/growing-harvesting-baling-hay-zmaz75jazgoe/
• Pat Goodwin. 2015. “Buyers Guide to Hay Equipment.” Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, Small Farm Sustainability. www.extension.iastate.edu/smallfarms/buyers-guide-hay-equipment
• The Hay Manager. “Square vs. Round Bales.” www.thehaymanager.com/hay-saving-hay-management-round-bale-hay-feeders/square_vs_round_hay_bales/.
• Interview with Ana Skemp. 2024.

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Originally published in the May 15, 2025 digital issue of Goat Journal