Goats in Cold Weather
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When it comes to goats in cold weather, we must adjust our food, water, shelter, and even supplies management.
AT KOPF CANYON RANCH, we experience extreme winters with subzero temperatures, ice storms, and deep snow accumulation. We must adjust our food, water, shelter, and even supplies management. As a producer, how do we prepare for cold weather with goats?
How do we feed goats in cold weather?
Winter preparation begins in late summer as we source our winter feed. We calculate, on average, 6 pounds of hay per goat per day. That number varies by the quality of hay, the nutritional value of supplements, the condition of the goat (ours are pregnant through the winter), and climate.
Since we don’t feed grain, we look for a minimum of 14% protein content in our hay. If goats are on hay for over three months, they may become deficient in fat-soluble vitamins A, D, and E. Supplementation may also be required. When it comes to goats and cold weather, the best way to keep goats warm is to keep their rumens active, since rumination produces heat. We keep hay out for our herd 24/7 through the winter.
One of the most critical considerations for goats and cold weather is water. Without water, rumination can’t happen. The rumen requires 60% water to function effectively. Without adequate water, goats can’t eat. If goats don’t eat, they’ll get cold. The average 110-pound goat needs 2 gallons of water a day. Some data shows consumption at ¾ to 1½ gallons. That’s the low side.
If inadequate water is available, the goat will go off feed and lose condition rapidly. Insufficient water intake also puts male goats at risk for urinary calculi, and lactating does at risk of reduced production. Keeping loose minerals available and easily accessible encourages water consumption.
The rumen requires 60% water to function effectively. The average 110-pound goat needs 2 gallons of water a day. Some data shows consumption at ¾ to 1½ gallons, at the low end. If inadequate water is available, the goat will go off feed and lose condition rapidly.
Although snow works in some circumstances, it’s not a water replacement. Snow is the only water source for many large herds of goats and sheep managed on the rangelands. Many wild animals — such as deer — use snow as a water source and have adapted to this. However, all seek flowing water if it’s an option.
Most barnyard livestock haven’t adapted to changing their water source and won’t consume enough snow to meet their water needs. One gallon of water equals 8.3 pounds of snow. Converting snow in the body requires extra energy, which goats must compensate for in feed.
How do we keep our water from freezing?
We love pond deicers for our stock tanks, which have lower energy usage than tank heaters. It’s far more efficient to thaw only a portion of the trough, where the goats drink, as the ice acts as an insulator.
USE CAUTION — some goats see the ice as a solid surface and attempt to stand on it. In the best-case scenario, they leave goat berries all over the ice that eventually get into the water. Emptying a large tank in the winter is difficult, if not impossible, because the tank freezes to the ground. Worst case scenario, the goat falls through the ice into the tank. Some people cover the tank, which encourages them to jump up more. We have devised a fence in our trough to discourage goats from climbing onto the ice. If you have ponds that freeze, prevent access.
How do we fill water tanks?
While we have frost-free hydrants, using and draining hoses is more work than we want to do in the winter, and — no matter how careful we are — they freeze. Using buckets isn’t an option for a large herd. We use a shrinking hose. Lengths of 175 feet will fit in a five-gallon bucket stored indoors.
If hoses don’t reach your tanks, you can keep bucket water from sloshing and spilling by placing a garbage sack in a bucket, filling it with water, and then tying it closed. Spilled water means wet clothes and ice rinks, so we do our best to avoid it.
How do we provide heat for our goats?
We use the deep litter method of “heating” our shelters in the fall. As it cools off at night, we don’t rush to put out straw or provide heat. Instead, we allow the goats to feel the cold. This adjustment is called acclimation, which is critical to our herd’s health during the winter. They fluff their coats and shiver now and then — so do we!
Shivering isn’t necessarily a sign of illness; it’s a way for the body to generate heat. Feeling the changing temperature triggers their body to grow a thick undercoat, called cashmere, to insulate them from the snow and cold. Raising the hair traps air to help insulate them.
If a goat gets covered in snow, they aren’t cold! It indicates the goat is not losing heat and their natural insulation works.
If a goat gets covered in snow, they aren’t cold! It indicates the goat is not losing heat and their natural insulation works. Placing coats on goats compresses the hair, acting against this response and preventing them from growing cashmere. It may even make them colder, especially if the coat gets wet or moisture accumulates under it.
Coats may work in a small herd with infrequent severe drops in temperature but are impractical in our large herd.
What kind of shelter do we use in winter?
Our goats shelter in Conex shipping containers, if they shelter at all. They prefer to sleep in the snow. The containers can withstand our high winds and snow load. In a climate with heavy snowfall, buildings must be strong enough to hold snow.
If you’re in an area unaccustomed to snow, your buildings likely weren’t made to withstand it. Be sure to pull the snow off the roofs of your buildings and animal shelters to prevent collapse. Shoveling snow from roofs that don’t shed is real in the snow belt. It can also be dangerous — they can be slick. Be careful.
There is no electricity in our shelters. We leave one end open and have a hole cut in one side, so it’s a three-sided shelter that only protects from wind, rain, and snow. The open ends are critical for ventilation. Poorly ventilated shelters can lead to pneumonia unless you mitigate ammonia from urine. We use deep litter bedding to provide warmth.
In deep litter, the soiled straw remains in place. It’s allowed to decompose, which generates heat. As the straw becomes dirty, we use zeolite to neutralize ammonia. Barn lime will work, too. We continue adding new straw so the top layer is always dry. As the temperatures drop into the teens, we add more straw.
While it’s a good idea to have heat lamps on hand if a goat is ill or compromised and needs to be warmed, we prefer to use them only if necessary. Heat lamps and extension cords pose a fire hazard, and if power is lost, there’s a sudden and significant drop in temperature.
What other considerations are there for goats in cold weather?
Winter is hard on hooves. We do our health checks in late fall before breeding, including a hoof check. Remove any hoof folds that can trap moisture and harbor bacteria. Don’t trim the sole more than necessary — ice can cut, pierce, and damage the sole.
All goat products that can freeze need to be brought inside from outside storage, including thermometers. Batteries perform poorly when frozen, so keep flashlights and headlamps inside. In winter, everything freezes, including hinges and clasps.
We use propane torches to thaw ice on moving parts and use WD-40 to prevent them from freezing together. We also use spring carabiners as latches. They easily open one-handed, even when frozen.
Despite the extra challenges, we enjoy caring for goats in winter. It’s a quiet, peaceful season on the ranch. The difference between enjoying and dreading cold climates is all in the preparation.
KAREN KOPF and her husband Dale own Kopf Canyon Ranch (KCR) in Troy, Idaho. They enjoy “goating” together and helping others goat. You can learn more about them at Kopf Canyon Ranch on Facebook or kikogoats.org
