Goat Supplies

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“What basic goat supplies and goat-handling equipment do I need?” is a common question among people planning to get goats. The answer is that it begins with adequate housing and fencing before bringing goats home. Although there’s an almost endless list of additional items you can purchase, below is a starter list of supplies needed for goats that will make your life easier.

Feeding Equipment

• Hay rack or feeder.

Because hay is the mainstay of a goat’s diet, a hay feeder is number one in basic goat supplies. You’ll need at least one regular-sized hay rack for every two or three goats or one in each stall if they’re penned separately or in groups.

Never feed hay on the ground. If the top of the hay rack is open, goats may jump into it and can potentially break a leg. The internet has a plethora of homemade hay feeders you can make.

• Feed bowls.

Bowls are needed for feeding grain, chopped produce, supplemental kelp or nutritional yeast, and more. Kids also find the large bowls good for sleeping in. I use both large and small bowls, depending on how many goats I’m feeding at the time.

•Water buckets or tank.

Fresh water is essential for goats. The size of your herd and local weather conditions will affect which equipment you use. If you use buckets, put them in different places so bullies can’t stop others from drinking. Metal bucket hooks are handy for hanging them.

Investing in heated buckets will save you work in the winter if your shelter has electricity. A stock tank is more practical for those with a larger herd. Waterers such as the Ritchie automatic waterer are the best water tanks for those keeping goats and cattle together in the same pasture. It hooks up to a hose, so it refills itself.

• Mineral feeder.

Mineral feeders are another must-have in the goat supplies list. Mineral feeders for goats can be purchased, or you can build your own out of PVC or wood. One tip for keeping goats out of the mineral feeder is to mount it on the opposite side of the fence or wall so they have to stick their heads through to eat.

• Metal garbage cans.

Grain, minerals, and other supplements must be kept safe from pests. Don’t make the mistake of purchasing the less expensive plastic cans; rats can chew through them over time.

Barn/Housing Essentials

• Pitchfork, rake, and shovel.

Goats waste hay and make amess. Even if the floor is slatted, it must be picked up and the ground under it cleaned regularly. Depending on the area you’re cleaning (dry versus composting hay or straw), you’ll need a pitchfork, a rake, or a flat shovel — or sometimes all three.

• Broom.

A broom helps sweep up goat berries. For my goats’ sleeping shelf, I find a shovel the easiest way to pick up goat poop, followed by a broom to sweep up everything I miss.

• Wheelbarrow.

A wheelbarrow or garden cart is the best way to haul the hay and manure you muck out of the barn to your chosen location.

•Water heater and sink.

While not essential, not everyone can put a water heater in their barn, but if possible, you won’t regret it. For the first few years with goats, I carried buckets of hot water out to my goats several times a day in the winter. The water heater was a game changer.

Goat Handling Equipment

• Stanchion or Milk Stand.

A stanchion/milk stand is a “must-have,” even if you don’t plan to milk. One can be purchased from a goat supply store or plans for building one can be found online.

A stanchion is the best way to restrain a goat for clipping, hoof trimming, milking, or other treatments. It’s better than chaining them to a fence, putting them on your washing machine, or having another person hold them. I know people who’ve used all these methods to milk their goats.

• Grooming brush.

Most goats loved to be brushed. It helps remove dead skin, shedding undercoat, lice, and loose hair left after clipping. An undercoat rake can be used for longer-haired breeds.

• Hoof trimmers.

Hoof trimmers are another must-have item on the goat supplies list. Depending on their living conditions, goats’ hooves must be trimmed about every three months, so trimmers are indispensable. Trimmers made for hooves or pruning plants can be used. They need to be sharpened often or replaced every year. A Dremel is also handy for goat owners with a bigger budget.

• Collars and leashes.

Dog collars are dangerous because a goat can get strangled if they catch on something. The safest collars for goats are the plastic chain links sold by goat supply stores, which pull apart when caught on something. Baling twine can serve as a leash if you don’t have one.

• Clippers.  

Clippers shave off excess hair in the summer or eliminate lice by exposing them to the sun. Dog clippers will do. Battery-powered clippers may work for those without electricity in the barn.

• Dog kennels.  

Dog kennels for transporting are helpful, depending on your vehicle. Many goat keepers transport goats in a car, with a tarp protecting the seats or back of the vehicle. A truck with a canopy works, too.

Goat Health Care Supplies

• Thermometer.

A thermometer is the most essential tool to help determine if a goat is sick. Make sure you have one and use it when a goat seems “off.”

• Drench Gun.

A drench gun is useful for measuring and administering medications like dewormers and for rehydrating sick goats.

• Syringes.

Keep a variety of sizes of syringes. A 1cc syringe is best for kids who need smaller doses; 3 or 6 cc syringes are commonly used for adult goats. Luer Lock syringes are preferable because the needle can’t accidentally slip off the syringe.

• Needles.

Needles are necessary. You need to ensure the correct needle is being purchased and used. For subcutaneous injections, use a ¾-inch needle; for intramuscular, a 1- or 1 1/2-inch is best. The needle gauge is important. When administering thick medications, an 18- or 20-gauge is best; for thin ones, a 20- or 22-gauge is better because it has a smaller diameter.

Summary

A list of goat supplies, including supplements and medications, can seem never-ending. These are the basics. Other items are helpful or essential for kidding, milking, and showing, which serious keepers will gradually acquire the longer they have goats. Once you decide you’re in it for the long haul, sort out what you need versus what you want. Happy goating!

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CHERYL K. SMITH has raised mini dairy goats in the Coast Range of Oregon since 1998. She owns Karmadillo Press and is the author of Raising Goats for Dummies, Goat Health Care, Goat Midwifery, and Shed Boy, the first in a series of cozy mysteries set on a goat farm. www.GoatHealthCare.com